My First Backpacking Experience: Indonesia
It has been over a year since I survived a month long trip to Indonesia. Thanks to Facebook’s “memory” function, my timeline is still flooding with all things Indonesian- bringing nothing but wanderlust!
So, to cope with this I’ll just have to write about it then we can all wanderlust together. But, wanderlust with caution because not everything I’m about to say is going to be good!
Before heading to Indonesia, my only references to it (or rather Bali) were, sadly, purely based on “Eat, Pray, Love”. [Hides in shame]
So, with that said and my backpack filled to the rim, I left South Africa (a previous Dutch colony) for Indonesia (another previous Dutch colony) to meet my Long-distance Dutch boyfriend.
For what promised to be a month filled with adventure!
First Stop- Yogyakarta
Also called “Jogja”, this buzzing city is best known for its traditional arts and cultural heritage. With streets overflowing with scooters, people and life this city was definitely a highlight on my trip.
Our days were packed with not only hot and humid weather but visits to the Prambanan Temple (a Hindu temple known as the largest temple compound dedicated to Shiva), a beautiful sunset visit to the Borobudur (a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist temple), a stroll through the Taman Sari Water Palace, a 4X4 ride surrounding Mount Merapi (the most active volcano in Indonesia) and a visit to the ‘Kraton’- the Royal Palace.
When we weren't exploring Jogja’s deep historic sights we were shopping for Batik at the famous Malioboro Street, enjoying the Ramayana Ballet, eating platefuls of sambal and sipping on endless glasses of es jeruk (Indonesia’s equivalent of orange juice- but so much better!)
But, take note, if you’re planning a trip to Jogja and love your alcohol I would suggest you don’t travel during Ramadan as bars and buying alcohol maybe limited and expensive.
Second Stop- Flores, Labuan Bajo
Labuan Bajo (a bustling tourist town and fishing port on the west end of Flores) marked our one night stay before heading for a 4 night boat trip!
Our welcome was one for the books! Our homestay owner greeted us with a huge smile and excitement as I was the first black person that she had ever seen in person! EVER! So, I would say I was quite the treat for her.
We filled our night with wandering the area, attempting to enter the fish market (warning- the stench is ghastly!) and lastly we had a cheap fish dinner at the night market by the port.
Labuan Bajo was, to my ignorance, a place that I would long for in the next 24 hours!
Next Up: Boat trip from Flores to Lombok
When I first heard about the 4-day Komodo Island boat trip my first reaction was- hell no! I couldn’t imagine 3 nights with no bed, no flushing toilet, no electricity but more tragically- no Wi-Fi! But, with a few days of convincing I finally said yes.
The trip began in Labaun Bajo where we boarded an old fisherman’s boat with a handful of Frenchies and a variety of solo and couple adventures from all over the world.
The 4 day boat trip was filled with Sailing, sailing and more sailing.
In between we had some great treats: Komodo Island (home of the Komodo Dragon- the largest, heaviest lizards in the world and one of the few with a venomous bite), Waterfall on the Sumbawa Island and snorkelling in the waters of a few other islands on the way. And, to add to our already exciting boat trip our third night included an (almost) shipwreck- thanks to the stormy sea!
By the time our last night on the boat arrived I was the miserable South African on the boat but, finally, morning came (and after eating eggs, rice and noodles for 4 days) we all thankfully disembarked the boat.
Third Stop: Lombok
We spent 4 nights in Lombok at La Casa Homestay, where we were hosted by an Indonesian woman and her European husband (quite the norm in Indonesia).Here we visited the Hindu beach temple-Batu Balong and the Lombok water palaces- Peru Kelasa Narmada & Pura Kelasa, Narmada.
We then spent our remaining 3 nights in Lombok at the relaxing and Instagram worth island of Gili Meno. Here we stayed at Ana Warung and Bungalows (where we were hosted again by an Indonesian woman and her European husband). Ana Warung was definitely a treat for a good price but beware of the spiky sea urchin. I stepped on one on the very first day (which nonchalantly injected a series of excruciating black barbs into the sole of my foot) which rendered me a hobbling cripple for a few hours.
Fourth Stop: Nusa Lembongan
This was a 2 night short stop en-route Bali. Here we spent 1 days exploring the Island and visiting the breathtakingly beautiful Devil’s Tears Bay.
Final Stop: Bali
Famously known as Bali’s ultimate cultural hub, Ubud (an amazing mesh of old and new) was our next stop. Here we visited the temples -Gunung Kawi, Pura Gunung Kawi, Pura Besakih, Tanah Lot and Ulawati.
We had an adventurous visit to the Sacred Monkey Forest, a mandatory souvenirs stop at the Ubud Market and a visit to the famous Tegalalang rice Terrace.
With its beautiful landscapes, more affordable beer and delicious pork dishes Bali definitely lived up to its name. And, finally, after adventurous weeks of travel we decided to ditch the homestays and opted for a night at the Swiss-Belhotel Tuban for our last night in Bali- a nice change but definitely not recommended for an authentic Indonesian experience.
Indonesia proved to truly being a land of contradictions. On one hand, a place that is rich with history and culture set against a backdrop of breath-taking landscapes and wonderful experiences and, on the other hand, a place flooded with pollution, poverty and an overwhelming number of stray cats and dogs.
But, from the lukewarm dripping showers, to being asked to pose for photographs with random strangers, Indonesia was an unforgettable place with unforgettable faces.
Its people are a true definition of unhappily content. They take all the bad that is thrown their way and still manage to bring warmth and happiness to the people that they meet!
I’m not sure that I will be booking a trip back very soon, but the craving for es-jeruk might just make the decision for me!
